(This series is neither well planned or coherent. What it is, though, is the result of spending a few spare hours at Christmas 2021 looking through some recently located files of pictures, and thinking about my golfing journey to this point. I’ve been lucky to have played in some pretty special places, and made some lasting connections along the way, and year end seems as good a time to reflect back on a dozen of these as any. Who knows, it might inspire me to plan a few more exploratory trips for the year ahead. All suggestions & invites are welcome!)
Here we are on the 10th day of Christmas, and many golfers on social media are frantically swapping their thoughts around the “must-play” resolutions for the year ahead. I have a list, too - probably unrealistic in places, but exciting nonetheless - but it reminded me of a major wish list course I did visit in November 2021, after probably ten years of meaning to. Having now managed to get there, I am confused as to how it took me that long, given that the 1st tee is within an hour of Pennell base camp, and that we’ve been paddling in the cold water of the sea there for years, peering across at the links, and the warm-looking clubhouse.
Hayling’s website mentions that it is the only true links between Rye and Cornwall, and that it was originally formed as a 9 hole course in 1883, the brainchild of the magnificently titled Mr Fleetwood Sandeson. Joe Lloyd was responsible for that initial layout, which was extended to 18 holes when further land use was permitted, with both John Henry (“J.H.”) Taylor and Harry Colt involved at certain points. But the course that exists today is largely attributable to Tom Simpson, who followed his work at New Zealand to develop and renovate Hayling in 1933.
In typical Simpson style, the course weaves its way through the dunes, the constant changes in direction playing havoc with the player’s understanding of the wind direction. It is only from the 14th that the holes start to follow a familiar compass setting, with all but the short 16th (“Wharram”) following the general easterly path back to the refuge of the bar.
The conditioning is firm and fast throughout, and the considerable areas of mown runoff provide plenty of variety in the essential recovery shots, for missing greens here is a matter of “when, not if”. The infrequent bunkers are beautifully revetted and well-positioned, with mowing patterns gathering stray balls in as if by magnetism.
The course begins with a long par 3 (“Trap”), followed by a par 5 (“Sea”) that the course planner explains “is reachable in two”, before warning that “mortals…should favour the left side of the fairway” and play it as a three shotter. This implies that some immortals play here, too, but then again the website’s Club History page does mention an exhibition match between Taylor’s cohorts in the Great Triumvirate, James Braid and Harry Vardon.
Soon comes the short 5th (“Narrow”), which lives up to its name, just 12 yards wide, and very difficult to find with the tee shot, if our three were anything to go by. The approach to the par 4 8th hole (“Crater”) is the only blind shot remaining from the pre-Simpson course, and it feels like a baby brother of the 13th at Rye, hitting a short iron over the wispy grasses of a tall dune. Having negotiated that challenge, you can celebrate by ringing one of the finest bells I’ve seen on a golf course:
While it is clear why the 5th is called “Narrow”, I am still not entirely sure what “Pah-Ko-Chai” means, but this 10th hole starts the back nine with a tempting but dangerous short par 4. Hot on the heels of that is another wonderful short hole, the tough 11th (“Woolseners”) packing five bunkers and a grassy hollow into its 152 yards, which point towards the Solent, and also the prevailing wind.
The walk home starts with the 14th (“Farm”), swinging round a lake to bring the distant Clubhouse back into view. In another four holes’ time, the newish Clubhouse affords a warm welcome and the chance to for a moment escape the wind which whips through this linksland corridor, explaining the ubiquitous windsurfing sails in the distance.
Some of the details in the 19th are as appealing as those on the course, such a spotting scope, for watching the rest of the field battling against the course, some gorgeous black and white photographs which tell the long story of the Club’s existence, and, my favourite indoor feature, a basket full of blankets and hot water bottles, for those who have not had enough fresh air by that stage.
I think it is fair to say that Simpson himself is not celebrated as much as his impressive body of architectural work might deserve, and after finally seeing Hayling from inside the fences, I feel the same way about the course. To have this within such a short drive of the heathlands is a valuable option, and one I will be exploring again, soon!
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Always a pleasure to play there
Distinct shortage of proper links in the South